I’ve been having a lot of fun this winter with an extremely powerful chopsaw and getting very messy with grip solvent, glue, lead weight, tungsten and dangerous butane flames while adjusting a plethora of putters for my customers.
What I’ve learned over the years is that a huge percentage of putters are bought straight off the rack as “standard” and to be honest, there’s little chance of them actually fitting the player. How can you standardise a putter when you can’t standardise a human being?
Most customers will buy on looks, price and name brand recognition after a few strokes on the pro shop carpet. And much as I think Scotty Cameron’s are fabulous pieces of art and the man really does know how to forge a piece of 303 stainless steel into a timeless piece of art with tremendous feel, but they’re not necessarily the best out there when it comes to scrutinising them under the microscope of a high speed camera, or a SAM putt lab.
I’m not going to dwell on Mr Cameron’s creations too much, but I will say one thing, there is a tendency for most of his putters to have too much loft on them. It’s the same with other brands, too.
With the advent of VT – or visual technology – on the telly, companies like Odyssey, Never Compromise, Yes, etc got in on the act of making their putters rather apparent and once a Tour player has it in the bag, lots of people want one.
This is all well and good, but the Tour guys have their preferred brand fitted absolutely perfectly, to the enth degree so that it’ll hole more putts, feel better in the hands and earn a few more pension dollars! Look at the variety of different putters on Tour.
How many of your customers, or yourselves have actually been fitted properly for a putter – one that will suit their stroke, feel, body shape, height, arm length, hand size, putting technique and of course…budget?
When I first started learning about putter fittings, I remembered a day where I was lucky enough to be guided around the PING factory and I saw how they made their world beating PING putters.
At the time, I didn’t really notice that every shaft that went in the head made the putter 35-inches long, until the chap told me that he simply stole the shafts from the “sand wedge bin” and fixed them to the head with a ball-bearing rammed down the shaft to hold it in place – hence why PING used to have a standard of 35-inches. There was no specific shaft for a putter!
As leaders in the putter market for so long, thanks to Karsten Solheim and his magnificent invention which was drawn on the back of an LP cover, PING Ansers were copied relentlessly – Imitation being the sincerest form of flattery – and the reason why they were so popular was the Anser was the first perimeter weighted putter invented, which made it much more forgiving on off centre strikes, which the old Wilson 8802 style blade putters, were completely hopeless at if you missed the middle.
But the 35-inches was still regarded as standard length for so many years and thankfully, things have changed where most manufacturers have a variety of lengths now, ranging from 33-36-inches, depending on who you buy from.
The driver and the putter are changed more often than any other clubs. Drivers are bought, reshafted, shortened, lengthened, lead taped then sold or traded for another driver that is….Reshafted, shortened, lengthened, lead taped which in turn is sold or traded etc! Want proof? Check Ebay.
Putters are normally purchased after a few strokes on an artificial surface that doesn’t match the player’s greens, it is placed in the bag and used. Rarely are they fitted for loft, length, weight, lie or grip size. So why is it that the club that requires the most feel is rarely tinkered with or properly custom fitted?
It’s madness, isn’t it? If putting accounts for 43% of the game, according to rocket scientist Dave, then really we should be spending a hell of a lot of time having the “slashing blade” fitted to us correctly. The putter should fit the player, not the other way around.
There are only six variables that need to be addressed when custom fitting the putter. They are as follows:
LENGTH, LOFT, LIE, TOTAL WEIGHT, GRIP, HEAD DESIGN
Fitting for the correct Length
The length of the putter determines the posture the golf adopts when putting, if the putter is too long the golfer creates more angles in the wrists and elbows which is not conducive to a good putting action.
The problem has been created by the OEM companies setting the standard putter length at 35” as I have stated before.
It is rare I’ll ever fit a putter to 35” long – I’m 6’4” tall and my personal putter is fitted at 34.25”.
According to research done by the guys at Yes putters and GolfSmith, 35” was only suitable to around 15% of golfers. Fitting the correct length doesn’t require expensive state of the art equipment; an uncut, ungripped putter and a mirror is all that is required.
It also helps that the customer, or student has a fundamental understanding of which putting stroke suits them best. Simply put, the more a player likes to stand up, the shoulders are on a slight incline, which, on a shoulder controlled motion, will promote a curvature in the stroke. Stan Utley likes his student’s putters to be longer, around 69 degree of lie angle (3-4 degrees flat), which promotes this arc.
My own take on this is that it’s very difficult to consistently square a rotating blade. Ball position has to be critical each time in order for the face to return square to the target line every time.
The more a players shoulders are vertical over a putt, the easier it is to perform a more straight back and through action. Paul Hurrion, in his research advocates that the hands on the grip should be positioned such that they are directly under the 7th cervical in the upper spinal area, leaving the shoulders at a more horizontal plane, encouraging a straighter path back and through.
In my experience with SAM lab, even the most technically proficient putters have a very slight curvature in the swing on longer putts. On shorter putts, the trace patterns show a squarer path through impact with a much slower rate of face closure, if we take the Hurrion system…my own preference to teach.
Given those two differences, this is how I would fit a putter.
Get the student to set up to say a 5-10 foot putt in a comfortable address position whereby they have good balance and the arms are hanging naturally.
Using the “fitting” putter, mark the shaft 1” above the top hand. This works with all techniques, left hand low, conventional and also the Two-Thumb method.
This is the length of club the golfer should be using, rarely is it 35”. If you use a putter with a grip on it, the customer will adapt their posture to fit the putter and not fit the putter to their posture.
Lie angles.
The Lie of the putter is determined by the correct length and also eye positioning. One of the tests I do when I fit for a putter is check the students perception to reality by lining up some golf balls with a laser so they are perfectly straight in a ten foot line. I ask the player to take their posture with the eyes directly over a line in a mirror and look down the line. If they see a straight line, the eye position would be correct. But many see a slight curvature, either left or right. By adjusting eye position so we can see a straight line when we look left, we can then fine tune the length and lie of the putter.
Lie angle is not critical with putters, but I do like the putters to sit flush with the floor as much as possible. It is not as important as the correct lie angle for irons. This is purely down to the lack of loft on a putter which renders face angle tilt to the left or right mostly irrelevant. Robot testing shows on putts from 5 feet to 25 feet are not affected by different lie angles, even when extreme. Once you bear this in mind, you’ll understand why some of the old school putting styles worked – Seve the magician, Billy Casper and Isao Aoki etc.

The correct lie angle will help with creating a repetitious putting stroke and is crucial for mid length and long putters as the wrong lie can cause turf scraping.
Fitting for Loft
As putting surfaces have become better, so loft on the putter has been reduced. In the past putters have needed more loft to get the ball rolling better on longer, more uneven greens. The average loft of a putter is 3.5 degrees, but this does not necessarily equate to a 3.5 degrees launch angle. The initial launch of a putt depends on the golfers putting action which varies in ball position, angle of attack and forward press, etc. Loft is needed to reduce the skid zone on a putt which is the transition stage from back to top spin and is the most unstable period of the putt.
Using SAM Putt Lab and the Casio EX F1 on a 1200fps setting, you can clearly see the effect each player will get when they hit medium length putts. Ideally, we want “true roll” to start as soon as the putter strikes the ball, on the upswing.
The rule of thumb here is that the rise angle during the swing of the putter should be more than the dynamic loft at impact – SAM is really the TrackMan of putting in this respect. But if you really want to go one stage further and check this, use either a Casio EXF1, or equivalent, on hi-speed (with lots of light!) or get Paul Hurrion’s Quintic Ball Roll software – expensive, but brilliant.
I have adjusted lofts on putters both ways, stronger and weaker to fine tune the dynamic launch angle and given proof with use of the camera. My own putter went from 4 degrees down to 1.5 and sometimes, I have gone the other way from 4 up to 7 degrees to help rectify the DLA due to the player’s huge forward press. Negative loft is to be avoided, but for some people, it works. If you have a dynamic negative loft, you’re striking the ball into the ground. Newton’s third law…anyone?
Grooves
The modern trend is to have grooves on putter faces now. Yes putters were the first to capitalise on this technology with the C-Groove. The technology has now been pilfered by many other brands such as the Snake Eyes ARC, the GEL Putters and a host of others – strangely not Scotty Cameron, PING or Odyssey! Bizzare.
I don’t have any doubts that the grooves work. I’ve tried a fair few on indoor greens, outdoor greens and I can say from my own personal experience, they do work, which is why I would have no hesitation to recommend them. If the grooves get the ball rolling sooner, with little or no skid, jumping or bouncing, then surely the ball will hold the intended line better? Aimpointers out there – please feel free to expand on that.
Fitting for Total Weight
Unfortunately, most putter heads are designed and weighted for a “standard” 35” length, and when cut to a more playable length the putter loses total weight, balance and feel. Swingweight is not important to a putter it is the total weight that gives balance and feel. There are many ways to replace that lost weight including, heavy shafts, weights that fit in the grip and weights that inside the shaft. Experimentation is the best method, but I always make a note of the putter’s total weight before adjusting the length.
One of the brands that surprised me most is Heavy Putter. Basically, they are funky new designs with a simple philosophy – get the putter’s centre of gravity (COG) closer to the COG of the player, approximately two inches behind the navel and just in front of the spinal column. This will allow more core muscles to control the stroke, rather than those pesky fingers!
By adjusting the COG of the putter in that extreme, there is a hell of a lot of back weighting going on. Try a 300gram lead weight under the grip. The total weight is double of a standard type putter, making it…you guessed it…Heavy!
Some people might not like it that extreme, but even a 30gram weight can make a huge difference to feel – it all depends on how sensitive we are!
It takes a bit of getting used to, but as this club is very individual for every player, there needs to be a lot of “customising” for every player.
If you’ve not tried it, consider it. A lot of my customers love it. I inserted 300grams under the grip of a face-balanced Scotty Cameron Newport 2 Long Neck that I love – and now I love it more! The putter now is both face-balance and in true BMW fashion, has 50-50 weight distribution for “better handling”!
It really does calm the hands down and takes those twitch muscles out of play. Feels solid at impact, too and rolls the ball nicely as I’ve only got 1.5 degrees loft.
You can’t beat a bit of trial and error and I know it’s sacrilege to do that to a collectors edition Newport 2…but if I make more putts, roll the ball better and still retain great feel – that’ll ding dang do for me.
Fitting the Grip
The main function of the grip is comfort, but also can control the wrist action during the putting stroke. Larger grips “quieten” the hands and encourage use of the larger, more stable muscles when putting. It is worth having a selection of grip sizes and styles for your customers to choose from. The biggest sellers for me personally are the Two-Thumb grip from Phillip Gazeley’s idea box and the massively oversized Winn Jumbo’s and Giants. They are versatile and can be used with several grip techniques. Of course, I have plenty of slimmer grips which can be fattened out using extra layers of tape and a selection of different textures. Rubber, synthetic, leather etc.
On and extreme note – one of my elite players, who was really a poor technician with a putter before, has opted for left below right, totally different posture with a Two-Thumb grip placed at 90-degrees to the norm. His handicap dropped from 3.4 to now 0.6 – he’s lethal with that thing! Sometimes a change should be extreme.
Fitting for Head Design
The shape and style of a putter is extremely personal, and the golfer will feel more comfortable and confident if the putter looks good to them when set up behind the ball. However, it is worth noting that head design can be influential, depending on the putting action, for example face balanced putters are best for golfers who take the putter straight back and through but not so good for a golfer who has an arcing putting action when a heel shafted putter head would be more suitable.
The differences tend to be cosmetic, too. Traditional Anser/Newport type putters tend to look neater, slimmer, but have up to ¼ or ½ toe hang in most cases. While the mallet type Odyssey etc are cumbersome, even ugly to look at – but, if fitted properly to your stroke and it works…pretty is what pretty does, Forrest!
When making changes to a golfers putter it is best to make those changes drastic, as putting is so much about confidence and sometimes a complete change works best. Trial and error is a great thing with putters and there is no right and wrong.
I’ve built putters this year of 28-inches long with a huge grip and weighing 750grams total weight! I’ve also built them with ultra light grips and masses of weight in the head. My favourites to work with are the Scotty Cameron’s and PINGs. Among my players, they refer to them as chipsticks as they just have a bit too much loft for my liking! Being so soft, the Scotty’s are totally malleable. Great for customising.
As a fitter, there are several tools to have. A putter loft/lie machine. A fitting putter, SAM lab, or TOMI, a good High-Speed camera and a large selection of heads to choose from.
I also have a fitting system like the wedges with several heads, shafts and grip types connected to each other via Faz-Fit connectors – excellent for trial and error.
I order all of my putters in uncut and ungripped so I can do the work myself. Only Titleist/Cameron refuse to do this for me. All other companies I work with will listen to what I and my customers demand.
And for the professionals out there…of course, this takes some time and knowledge to build or customise the most important club in the bag. Fear not for charging for your time here. After all, you are really giving a top service to your customers.













